THE LOST CITY OF MRAUK-U

Mrauk-U was the capital city of 48 kings for 355 years and was founded by King Mong Saw Mon in 1430. The city offers the visitor many chances to study the cultural and traditional heritage handed down to the present day Rakhine generation by their forefathers. Mrauk U can rightfully be claimed as the “Open-air Museum” of the arts and culture of the people of Rakhine.

The Golden days of this city were between the 16th and 17th centuries and contemporary to the days of the Tudor Kings, the Moghuls, the Ayuthaya Kings and the Ava (Inwa), Taungoo and Hanthawaddy Kings of Myanmar.

The city was well-fortified with 19 mile long fortification walls, moats and natural barriers: the then war-torn Rakhines began to regard it as the “Promised Land”.

Once, more than six million shrines and pagodas flourished and there is rarely a hilltop that does not adorn itself with one pagoda or another.

After the annexation of Arakan (Rakhine) by the British, the capital was shifted to Sittwe (Akyab): since that time Mrauk-U was known by the people as Mrohaung (Old City). The name Mrohaung was given by the British when they shifted their seat of administration to Sittwe in 1826. The original name was restored in 1979.

The city is just 40 miles away by river from Sittwe and the trip takes 3 to 4 hours. There are daily flights to Sittwe from Yangon which take 2 hours via Thandwe. The boat departs from a jetty in the Sattroegya, a tributary creek of the Kaladan river and on the way there are many places of interest to be seen along the river.

The gateway to Mrauk-U is Thantara village from where the undulating hills of the city with white temples and pagodas on their tops appear within sight. The Thinghanadi creek is the city's life-blood and the boat journey ends at Aungdatt wharf.

The stone pagodas were built three and four centuries ago and many have been totally neglected for the last 150 years: the sides of the stone blocks fit compactly and are joined with cement thus resisting the absorption of ficus which are capable of reducing a brick pagoda into a shapeless heap of bricks in a few years.

The pagodas and temples built or renovated during the Myanmar governor’s rule (after the fall of Mrauk-U 1785-1825) followed the tradition of the Kunhaung architecture, with smaller pagodas built at the corners of the lower basement of a pagoda; bricks were usually used in making the receding arches. U Mra Wa and Shwegu Daung pagodas are the two examples that still survive.

Gold and silver coins serve as the priceless heritage of the Mrauk-U period. The tradition of coin-making was handed down from the Vesali kings who started minting coins around the fifth century. The coins so far found are of one denomination only. Inscribed on the coins are the title of the ruling king and his year of coronation; coins before 1638 had Rakhine inscriptions on one side and Persian and Nagari inscriptions on the other. The inclusion of the foreign inscriptions was meant for the easy acceptance by the neighbouring countries and the Arab traders. Twenty-three types of silver coins and three types of gold coins have so far been found. All the kings who ascended the throne issued coins.

City walls, gates, settlements, monastery sites, fortresses, garrisons and moats are the other priceless heritages left to the safe keeping of today's Rakhine people. Stone rubbles of proud mansions of that period are also priceless reminders of Rakhine glory.

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Decoding : "Talonted" !



All Saints (£155 and £175)



In the past, we used to do the curtsey : this exercise was first a social sign for respect, but also a good way to show your grace and excellent deportment. Now, it is obsolete, and quite regrettable and not only for the daily gymnastics it forced you to do, but because it would be a quite convenient way to admire our peers' shoes. Indeed, shoes are now a powerful part of an outfit, and customers are getting more and more daring with what they choose. But, face it, it is a pity to wear extravagant shoes because you're incuring the risk of them being ignored. Except if we reintroduce curstey ... And then, your fruity Charlotte Olympia would never been missed again ! But when it comes to the heel, this smart idea is finding its limits.

Jeffrey Campbell (I Don't Like Mondays, out of stock) - Alexander McQueen (price on demand)

In French, le talon. Hence the title, a pun with "talented". The heel is designers' new whim for some seasons. The most famous examples are of course the creations of Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, but slowly, the heel is starting to become one of the most important part of an outfit. Is it a new "Follow me, young man" ? Or just a fantasy that doesn't really survive the transfer from the catwalks to the streets ? Why spending so much work and attention in a part which is not clearly visible ? That sounds like an excessive luxury. But heels have been a strong symbol of feminity for ages. Stilettos are a weapon of sensuality. It is very simple : a sexy curve and a sense of power, due to the threat of the point. So, sculpted, finely-worked heels have got a meaning too. They are all extremely solid, even monolithic. If stilettos were associated with knives, those remind of guns grips ! But they are pacific, and their message seems to be "Art not War" ! 

Rodarte (Style.com) - Meadham Kirchhof (Stylerookie)





















The heel is a new way to express the talent of a designer. They can do what they want with it, treating it like a real medium for their artistic sense. Scuplted in wood or metal, it can be minimalistic, such as a contemporary sculpture. Some prefers it more baroque, and imitates the stucco of the architecture Grand Siècle. With gold, it turns luxuous, with sequins, it gets pop. Ralph Lauren prefered silver, Christian Dior worked it in the way of a Art Déco glass-blower. Everything is possible. But is Art the only meaning of those complicated heels ? It is also a statement, a way to show your uniqueness in a world of mainstream culture and production at grand-scale. Yes, women still want to be sexy. But they also want to be remarkable.
As for me, you know I'm not a great defender of heels, but I appreciate the effort, as a strong supporter of art. But I still can't picture myself perched on those things.

Trend : Vitamin your Style

Gucci S/S 2011 ad

My active readers would think that I am wittering on because I've already made articles on that subject ( see Rainbow Warriors and another one, "I am a Giant Bubble Gum"). But Saturday evening, while I was at Somerset House for Vodafone London Fashion Weekend, I was particularly stricken by the violent revival of colours, and how people had the audace of wearing outfits mixing them. Of course, it was specially visible on the collections of the present designers ( here, allow me to heart Mark Fast ) but it was really remarkable on the women around me. The days before, I was in France, and here, everyone is clad in black. A street in Paris looks like the painting of Emile Friant "All Saints'Day" and photographers are forced to change their adjustements if they want to add contrast to their work. Depressing. Parisians, and French people in general, need an urgent extreme make-over, because their neighbours of Great Britain are already in Springtime.

Kurt Geiger S/S 2011 ad

 In Kensington, the cherry trees are in bloom, as well as the store windows. Those of Bond Street are as vitamined as the stalls of a greengrocers, and let me tell you IT FEELS GOOD ! I love black, grey and white, but it's time to show we are alive, not bereaved. The summer campaign of Dolce & Gabbana, for example, with its Italian mammas makes me feel black, I mean, blue ... Throw your black lace, it is time for a come-back of joy, that excitement they had in the 20s, 30s, 60s and 70s. Listen to the music back then : that was joyful ! I feel this spirit when I see the clothes of Gucci's S/S collection. Their colours are amazing and wake up the pages of every magazine ( except Katy Perry in the cover of Elle, I don't know why but she succeeded in fading the clothes she's wearing ... ).

Topshop.com

 And the Italian brand is not the only one to rock the accumulation of colours. The catwalks were full of them. I won't repeat my previous articles, but for the new readers, let's quote Jil Sander. The advertisements are also more funky, and not only because the smiles are back ( Sportmax, Kurt Geiger, Versace ) and on the catwalks, the actresses have launched a real battle between colour blocks and nude. For the Oscars, my votes go to Scarlett Johansson and Jennifer Lawrence. And it's the easiest trend to follow : you can easily buy great pieces at low prices, as a very simple tee with a catchy colour will make the best effect on every outfit. Brands such as Topshop, Jaeger and Wallis are offering a wide choice of bright-coloured basics.

Hairstyling at Meadham Kirchoff S/S 2011 show ( copyright unknown )

 And on the side of beauty, colours are also omnipresent : be bold with your make-up, but also with your hair. You can dare the splash of colour a la Altuzarra or the total glam rock hairdo inspired by Meadham Kirchoff.
A special mention for the trend of the fruits prints : a more direct way to claim your dose of vitamins ! I who generally avoid prints, I am seduced by the oranges, the bananas and the citrus of Stella McCartney, Prada and Moschino Cheap and Chic. Fashion is, this season, the only place where you can choose both natural and chemical products, without risks for your health ! I don't know you, but I, I will not deprive myself and pick both up again !

Haider Ackermann S/S 2011 ( Style.com )

bag Karen Millen

Stella McCartney dress worn by Freja Beha Erichsen in Vogue Paris